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Eating chicken is kind of weird

Don’t feel guilty, but…

Chicken is really cheap. Most folks eat a lot of it. We and other pastured poultry producers raise chickens using humane, healthy, natural farming practices, and we do our best to keep the cost down as much as we can, though of course raising healthy, natural chickens costs more than chickens raised in cages.

The fact that basic cage-raised, soy-fed chicken is so cheap is a prime example of how completely insane our modern food system is.

Let’s do some math. There are about 1300 calories in a whole chicken of around 4 pounds.

Alternatively, a laying hen that free ranges might lay 250 eggs a year. That’s approximately TWENTY THOUSAND CALORIES

We’re going to stop doing math now because it ought to be obvious that you have to be insane to kill the chicken and eat it instead of collecting the eggs. (Don’t feel bad, we’re crazy about grilled chicken in our family.)

Oh, and by the way, the chicken you are eating takes about 10 pounds of grain to get to size if it’s raised in a little cage so it can’t burn off any of those precious calories being healthy, whereas the layer hen can forage for almost everything she needs given the right environment, with some supplemental nutrition to ensure she remains healthy, such as calcium for strong egg shells. The frankenchicken broiler will never produce eggs, whereas the laying hen can still be put into a flavorful and healthy stew or soup stock after she has lived a long, happy, productive life.

So TWENTY THOUSAND calories from running around eating bugs (chemical-free pest control), or one-fifteenth of that if you feed more than twice as much in grain as you get back in meat.

A stopped clock is right sometimes

A vegetarian, no meat diet is horribly unsustainable, but much of the criticism of modern meat consumption is on target. Please enjoy your chicken dinner (we do) but don’t take it for granted. Mass market chicken prices are the result of underpaid labor, undervalued cropland, and petroleum reserves exploited without regard for future generations.

Holistic farm management

We raise meat chickens as an important partner species in our dynamic program of holistic farm management. Because broiler chickens (even the free rangy types) range less than layers, we can move them around the farm to areas where we want to add chicken manure. This lets us naturally apply fertilizer straight from the chicken to areas of the pasture that look like they need a little extra help. However, there is a limit to the number of broiler chickens we will raise in a year, because adding too much natural chicken manure fertilizer to our pastures would be counterproductive.

We also sometimes put the broilers next to our sheep or pigs to help with pest control, although the heritage layer hens tend to be better at this overall.

In a sensible food system, a nice roast chicken dinner would be a treat: perhaps something special to make with the family for a Sunday meal. That’s why we encourage our customers to make sure to use the whole bird. Save those bits and pieces of leftovers and make chicken salad or tacos the next day, and save the bones to make bone broth. Before corporate agribusiness, that’s exactly how most people ate chicken. Even though our chickens cost more than the confinement-raised birds at the supermarket, we think that eating this way actually provides better value for your money. It’s also far more sustainable.

Vegetarian diets are not sustainable

Follow the money

There is always a lot of talk in the media about meat being unsustainable. Well-promoted books and articles profess the idea that a meatless diet uses fewer resources and is more ecologically sound than more balanced alimentation.

This is all nonsense, much of it paid for by investment funds that plan to make money selling processed “vegetable” products at a substantial markup to the real cost. Nobody ought to be forced to eat meat if they don’t want to. I didn’t eat meat or fish for seven years, and our family still abstains from meat about once a week. But it’s simply false to claim that a “vegetarian” or “vegan” diet is in any way better for the environment.

“Corporate” agriculture is not sustainable

The fact is that agribusiness is irresponsibly wasteful of natural and civic resources and harmful to the environment. Most farmers care deeply about their local ecologies and the quality of food they produce, but their hands are often tied by usurious agriculture conglomerates. A vast, monocrop field of corn or soybeans contains less species diversity than a desert or an arctic tundra. The agribusiness operations that produce these crops are strip-mining invaluable soil resources and depositing toxic chemicals into local watersheds. There is nothing sustainable about a “veggie burger”. Not only are the crop inputs farmed in a manner that destroys natural resources, but after harvest they have to be processed in a factory that uses even more chemical pollutants!

“Organic” farming is no panacea, because Federal regulations allow large scale monocrop farming with hazardous chemicals to qualify for an “organic” label. What your local, small scale, beyond-organic vegetable farmer calls “organic” and what a multinational agribusiness calls “organic” really aren’t comparable, but current regulations (heavily influenced by industry lobbyists) lump together these very different practices.

It’s true that animals raised in confinement tend to be unhealthy and that feedlots and other such operations may have problems managing the vast amounts of manure they generate in far too small a space. They’re probably unsustainable. However, that waste manure does at least have fertilizer value, which is more than you can say for the remnants of a post-harvest field of glyphosate-engineered corn.

What a “sustainable diet” really means

Grass is pretty sustainable. It even grows well in places that aren’t able to grow other things like cucumbers or potatoes. In fact, grass tends to be pretty much one of the first volunteer species to grow in a patch of bare dirt. Grass roots help keep topsoil from eroding and, year after year, the grass itself adds more organic matter and fertility to the soil. Some of the most fertile soils worldwide were formed from grass decomposing year over year.

Humans can’t eat grass, but ruminant animals can. Traditional diets all over the world have often relied on animals that can eat grass. Grass grows on ground that can’t otherwise be sustainably (or even efficiently) farmed and feeds animals that provide meat and milk. Those animals, through the very process of grazing, add nutrients to the soil that help the grass to grow even more. All with 100 percent solar energy.

If you look at a herd of ruminants in nature, it’s always surrounded by a lot of birds which eat the insects that follow the herd. Chickens and other poultry can help fill this role on sustainable farms. Hogs, goats, and other foragers roam the forests and woody edges of grazing pastures, clearing weeds and brambles that if left untended would both diminish pasture forage and choke off forest growth. The animal herds and flocks move frequently, rather than exhausting any one particular area of forage. The various forages, given time to rest, use the nutrients from animal manure and regrow in time for future grazing. This is a self-sustaining, holistic system.

“Sustainable” means something that has lasted the test of time, not a fad backed by financial speculators and corporate advertisers.

For almost all of human history, people have filled most of their nutritional needs with either meat or seafood. They ate the whole animal, including cartilage, organs, fat, and broth from the bones. Fruits and vegetables were picked and eaten fresh in season, or preserved through fermentation; not shipped halfway around the world. Farmers practiced crop rotation, not just with vegetable crops but also with animals, by allowing animals to forage in a field after harvest, or by keeping a field as fallow pasture every few years, or even perhaps unintentionally through the practice of swidden farming.

There’s a common historical myth that our ancestors ate mostly bread or porridge. This kind of mathematically impossible nonsense could only be propounded by people who don’t know how to cook, or who perhaps are being paid to promote unsubstantiated conjecture as historical fact. The fact is, as anyone knows who has done some home baking, that the amount of flour in a large loaf of bread (enough to make you feel sick if you eat the whole thing) doesn’t contain enough calories to sustain an active adult for a single day. Likewise oatmeal is a common “diet food” for a reason. It is risible to suggest that meat wasn’t widely available in the past and a common part of everyone’s diet, or that people working at hard manual labor outdoors all day were subsisting on bowls of porridge. Those who were enslaved and forced to work on such a diet developed diseases of malnutrition such as pellagra and quickly died. The ubiquity of meat in normal ancestral diets is illustrated by the prominent role given to abstaining from meat for religious reasons, which in a socioreligious context only makes sense if such abstention requires a meaningful change in diet. We can also see evidence of the widespread everyday consumption of meat in pre-modern times by looking at records of army rations, which pretty much universally consisted of roughly equal amounts of bread and meat by weight. In fact, if one simply adds up the amount of meat included in published accounts of historical daily rations, it’s obvious that claims that “today we’re eating more meat than ever before” are the ravings of the historically illiterate and arithmetically retarded.

Ignore food fads and marketing gimmicks. Eat like your great, great, great, great, great, great, great, great, great grandparents did.

Some well-financed people have been trying to sell us the idea that the kind of holistic food system that has lasted for thousands of years is “unsustainable”, that monocrop latifundia are a historically sustainable means of agriculture (rather than strongly correlating with civilizational collapse), and that we all need to stop eating meat and purchase processed textured vegetable proteins in conveniently branded packages made palatable with chemical flavorings.

These unscrupulous frauds don’t care about you, they don’t care about the environment, and they don’t care that they’re selling a lie. All they care about is their bottom line, to which your personal buying power is inconsequential.

Your local family farmer cares about you, your health, your local community, and your local environment, because your local farmer’s success depends on your continued business — and they live here, too.

The new fad is to claim that the “sustainable” meat of the future will be made from insect protein. Just like the “veggie” scam, there is a lot of well-connected financial capital going into investing in this industry. There’s certainly nothing wrong with eating insects if you enjoy doing so, but basic math and simple common sense tells us these claims are nonsense. The insect proteins these charlatans are trying to sell are made from insects raised predominantly on conventional feed mixes, often food waste products from other food production processes. (So, “garbage”.) None of these insect species are really any more efficient than a chicken at converting feed to protein; most are less so. Since none of these corporations plans to simply serve field-caught chili-fried crickets as a snack, after producing the insects using an equivalent amount of feed as any other CAFO operation, they then have to use far more resources, including powered machinery and industrial chemicals, in order to transform the insect protein into whatever form of processed mystery glop they plan to sell it as. It’s all nonsense: rather than being a viable means of regenerative, sustainable food production, this plan is full of bugs.