"Brandenburg" Lamb with Green Beans

This is simple and very tasty. This amount will make enough for several family dinners.

Materials

A large, heavy pot would be best, with a lid

4 tablespoons of salted butter (plus see method)

2 yellow onions, medium-to-large

2 pounds of lamb (tougher cuts like a blade steak work well)

salt and pepper (to taste)

summer savory, fresh or dried, or a mix of thyme and sage (to taste)

2 cups homemade beef stock (or lamb stock if you have it)

2 pounds of fresh green beans

About 20 small potatoes less than 2 inches diameter (or larger potatoes cut in halves or quarters)

Method

Dice the lamb into approximately 1-inch square pieces. Clean and cut the green beans into approximately 2-inch long pieces. Peel the potatoes if you like, and cut into 2-inch pieces or smaller. Peel and cut the onions in half and slice them into medium-thin slices.

Heat the butter in the pot on medium-high heat. Either use clarified butter, or mix in a fat with a higher smoke point to prevent the butter from burning. Beef tallow works well. Brown the lamb in the butter on medium-high heat. Stir frequently to make sure all sides of the lamb pieces get browned. You don’t need a dark brown sear like on steak, just get the Maillard reaction started to add that extra flavor.

Keep the lamb on high heat and add the sliced onions and the red wine. Stir in some salt and pepper and some of your herbs. (You can add more seasoning later if necessary.) If you don’t have summer savory, use a mix of thyme and sage to approximate the flavor. Cook for another minute or two to let the alcohol in the wine cook off.

Add the stock just until the liquid barely covers the lamb and onions. 2 cups will likely be more than enough, so only use the amount of stock needed and reserve the rest for some other dish. Cover the dish with the lid and turn the heat down to low.

Braise for one to two hours until the lamb is completely tender. Taste the braising liquid and add extra seasoning if necessary, this may depend on whether or not your stock was seasoned. Add in the green beans and potatoes, mix well, and put the lid back on. Cook another 20 minutes or until the potatoes are done.

This dish is excellent regardless, but I think it is best when the beans are not overcooked and provide a green “pop” of color and fresh flavor. The problem with using (defrosted) frozen beans is that they would cook too quickly. If using frozen beans, a better choice might be to cook the beans separately and then mix in at the end. They won’t benefit from cooking in the braising liquid but at least won’t become overcooked.

For a low carb version of this dish you could leave out the potatoes, though without the potato starch mixed into the braising liquid the end result will be a bit watery and won’t taste quite as good.

Homemade Stock

You need bones, a large pot with a lid, water, a strainer, and (optionally) vinegar.

Do not use raw bones for stock. Roast, grill, or pan-fry the bones until they brown and begin to have black spots on them. If you use bones left over from a roast, these are already roasted and are fine to use.

Put the bones in a large pot. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Drain. Rinse the gunk off the bones and out of the pot.

Put the bones back in the pot. Cover with water. Optionally, add a splash of vinegar. Acidity technically helps to release minerals from the bones. If you use enough to be really measurable your stock will taste sour, but a splash (half a cup or less) isn’t going to hurt and might help.

Unless you are making stock for a specific purpose, there is no point in seasoning it at all. Keep it plain and then you can season it however you like, when you use it.

Cover the pot and simmer on extremely low how heat for as long as you can stand it. At least 24 hours. 72 hours would not be too long. Strain the stock into containers for storage.

We’ve found that freezing stock in glass containers, even with a lot of extra space for expansion, doesn’t work well and the glass frequently cracks. You could of course try pressure-canning in canning jars. We normally let the stock cool to room temperature and store it in freezer-safe bags. If you use this method, make sure you put the bag in a bowl or pot when defrosting. Freezer safe bags that are leak-proof when they go into the freezer have a habit of leaking when you take them out and defrost them.

Simple Pork Cuts Checklist/Walkthrough

This is a bare-bones (or boneless - hah!) guide for placing a custom butcher order for half a pig. We have some more in-depth plans elsewhere and there are probably hundreds of cuts you can get from half a pig, so if you have the time and desire to be adventurous then by all means, just start looking at “cuts of pork” and you’ll find a lot. However, if you are ordering a half hog from us or another local farmer so that you can put good food on the table for your family and you don’t have time to do hours of research, here you go.

The primal cuts of pork are the Shoulder, Loin, Belly, and Ham.

1. Shoulder: If you are going to get any roasts at all, get a Boston Butt roast or two. A smaller 3-pound roast makes leftovers for us (2 adults, 2 small children). The Picnic shoulder also makes good roasts for pulled pork. If you want fewer roasts and smaller cuts, the shoulder can also be cut into steaks. Shoulder bacon is good, and the picnic shoulder is also good ground for extra sausage or cut into stew meat.

2. Loin: We prefer double-thickness pork loin chops; you could also keep the loin as one big roast or a few smaller roasts. Two double-thick pork chops are a good meal for our family. Bone in means you don’t get baby back ribs, but you do get bones in your chops. The tenderloin cooks differently from other loin meat, so it may be best to have it separate. Grind the sirloin or cut it up for stew meat, it’s not a good cut for chops (unless you really like it.)

3. Belly: Take the spare ribs in half racks or a whole, and make standard bacon from the belly meat or have it cut as uncured belly roasts.

4. Ham: A whole cured ham is very large. You can also get it cut into smaller hams. For easy-cooking smaller meals, have the center of the cured ham sliced into steaks and keep the ends as smaller hams. We think thicker ham steaks up to an inch thick are more versatile, but for faster cooking you could go as thin as 1/4 inch. This is not sliced deli ham, you do need to cook it. If you don’t want cured ham you can also make roasts or steaks from a fresh, uncured ham, or you can grind it to get extra sausage. Uncured ham roasts are good but not quite as good as shoulder roasts.

5. Ground/sausage: You will get a few pounds of ground pork or sausage regardless, from the trimmings. If you want more than a few pounds you’ll need to pick something to add (such as the sirloin, picnic shoulder, or the uncured ham.)

6. Fat: A couple pounds of fat renders to a couple pints of cooking lard. Leaf lard fat has a more neutral flavor and you can use it in pastries. If you want more lard than that take some back fat, which makes lard that is great for frying and pan-frying. Homemade lard is an excellent cooking fat, but plan to store it in the refrigerator or freezer unless you’re using it up pretty quickly.

7. Other stuff: Get the hocks cured and smoked to add umami flavor to soups and stews. Extra bones and the pig feet are good for making stock. If you are new to organ meat, the heart is relatively easy to cook and mild in flavor. Pork liver has a stronger flavor than chicken liver; kidneys have quite a strong flavor. Pork jowl is quite fatty and can be braised or cured into a very fatty bacon. The whole head and the tail are probably not worth keeping unless you have specific plans.

Once you know what you want, custom ordering from the butcher is super simple. Here’s the literal text of an email we sent one of our custom butchers recently for a half hog for our family:

Hi [butcher’s name]

It’s [our name] [our phone number]

For our half hog:

Shoulder: make as many 3 pound-ish bone in roasts as possible. Smaller is fine, we want them to fit into a 6-quart slow cooker.

Loin: pull off tenderloin, baby back ribs (full rack), double-thick chops (2 per package), stew meat the sirloin (1 pound pkg).

Ham: grind for sausage

Belly: spare ribs (full rack), regular bacon 1 pound packages.

Sausage: 1/4 breakfast sausage (loose), and split the other 3/4 between brats and ground pork. 1 pound packages
Organ meats none this time, I'll take any trotters and extra bones.

Thanks!

(NB: We eat organ meats but our personal freezer was getting full at the time, and we already had plenty of lard and smoked ham hocks on hand.)

CSA pick-up dates January-May 2021

JUNE 2021 PICKUP DATES COMING SOON

Because our CSA pickups are at the houses of some of our subscribers, we don’t list the addresses publicly. If you are a CSA subscriber and need to know where to go to pick up, please call or email us.

Shares are usually ready for pick-up by noon.

Albany

Thursday, May 20

Newberg

Saturday, May 22

SE Portland

Saturday, May 29

SW Portland

Saturday, May 22

West Linn

Saturday, May 22

Simple traditional Christmas pudding (with leaf lard)

This is adapted from a video by Townsends, who are historical reenactors focused on the early American place and time and have a lot of great traditional recipes. As mentioned on our Cooking/recipes page, since “pasture-raised meat” used to be what everyone ate and knew how to cook, we think our meats often give their best flavor when cooked with old recipes and cooking methods. Of course, we’re not reenactors so we do use modern conveniences whenever we can get away with it!

You will need:

A very large pot with at least one handle

An additional means of boiling water

A clean, cloth kitchen towel without any holes in it

String

A large cooking bowl, a whisk, and a spoon

6 ounces pork leaf lard, frozen

3 eggs

3/4 cup milk

6 ounces AP flour plus plenty of extra

6 ounces dried pitted dates

6 ounces raisins

(optional, but recommended) a handful or two of candied or other dried fruits, such as candied cherries, candied orange peel, candied citron, or whatever you like

a couple pinches of powdered ginger and a couple pinches of nutmeg or about 1/4 nut grated

a few tablespoons brandy (you’re lighting this on fire, not drinking it. Must be 40 proof or higher.)

To make the pudding:

Fill the pot almost to the top with water and start it on high heat to get it boiling.

Dice the leaf lard into pieces ideally less than a quarter inch square, definitely less than a half inch. Make sure it is frozen first, the lard is far easier to work with when frozen. If the kitchen is warm, put the diced lard back in the freezer until you need it.

In the cooking bowl, crack the eggs and whisk them. Add about half the milk and continue whisking. Add the flour a little at a time and continue whisking so there are no lumps. Add the rest of the milk and whisk some more. Switch from whisk to spoon and add all the fruit. Mix very well. Add the spices and stir some more.

Mix in the diced leaf lard. The lard is a key ingredient. As the pudding boils, the lard slowly melts through the flour mixture, leaving small holes to aerate it and greatly improving the texture. You’ll end up with cloudy cooking water that probably has a lot of lard in it, but that’s okay. Whatever fat the pudding needs soak into the flour, and the rest that melts out helps the pudding have a smooth consistency and not turn into a boiled lump of gunk. Use raw, unrendered leaf lard (or suet from beef), not normal back fat or cooking lard. The leaf lard is a neutral flavor and won’t make your pudding taste like pork (though if you wanted to, you could probably include some candied bacon along with the dried fruits.)

Now add a tablespoon or two of flour at a time and stir it in very well. Keep adding flour and stirring it in completely until the mixture is very, very difficult to stir and all the flour is incorporated with no lumps.

Wet the cloth kitchen towel and lay out on a flat surface. Traditional recipes call for boiling the cloth, but wetting it seems to work fine. Sprinkle a good coating of flour over a large circular area in the center of the towel. This is to keep the pudding from sticking too badly.

Spoon the pudding mix onto the flour on the wet kitchen towel. The mix should be very, very thick and difficult to get out of the bowl.

Tie up the towel into a pouch with the pudding mix inside. Make sure (i) there are no gaps, (ii) the string is strong (use two just to be safe) and very tight, (iii) there is an inch or so of extra space inside the pouch for the pudding to expand. Leave a long tail on the string you use to tie up the pudding pouch.

When the water is at a rolling boil, put the pudding pouch in the water, hanging onto the tail of string. Tie the string to a handle on the side of the pot. Ensure that the pudding pouch floats freely in the water and that the string keeps the bottom of the pudding from sinking. You do not want the pudding pouch to rest on the bottom of the pot, as that could cause it to burn.

Partially cover the pot. Begin boiling some more water. Any time a significant amount of steam has escaped from your cooking pot, you need to top it up with boiling water. If you do not, the water level will go down and part of your pudding, held up by the string, will no longer be in the water and will not cook properly. How often you need to add boiling water depends on your pot. Do not add cold water, it must be already boiling so that the pudding continues to cook.

Boil the pudding for at least 2 1/2 and more like 3 hours. Realistically you aren’t going to overcook it, so going longer is fine. You can keep the pudding warm by keeping it in the hot water for a while after you turn off the heat.

To serve, remove the pudding pouch from the water. Untie or cut off the string(s) holding it closed and dump it out onto a platter. Yes, the kitchen towel that just came out of boiling water is hot. To check doneness, stick a long skewer through the pudding; it should come out clean.

Let the pudding rest for a few minutes to let some of the excess water steam off. When ready to serve, take it to the table and pour a few tablespoons of brandy over the top of the pudding.

Turn down the lights. Have a wet towel and a glass of water handy just in case. And a fire extinguisher, but you can’t eat the pudding if you use a fire extinguisher on it.

Light the brandy on fire. Yes, fire. Sing a Christmas song and admire the blue flames.

Most of the brandy will just fall down to the platter. Carefully pour it off, then light the pudding on fire again to burn off the alcohol. Slice the pudding like bread and serve.

(Optional) The pudding is good as is, but you can also make a pudding sauce. A simple recipe is a half cup butter and a cup sugar, combine in a pot and cook on low heat until the butter is melted, then whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Add about a quarter cup of heavy cream and whisk the sauce some more. Pour the sauce over the slices of pudding.

(Optional) It’s traditional to add brandy to the pudding, and you could certainly do that. The thing is, the pudding tastes really, really good on its own. Perhaps a better option would be to add brandy to the pudding sauce as you’re cooking it. That way you can control how much of the alcohol flavor you want by choosing how much pudding sauce you use, and the pudding itself can still be enjoyed by those who don’t want or can’t have the alcohol.

Easy pork schnitzel

No photos this time. You want photos, send us your own recipe with some photos with permission to post it!

You will need

1 pork leg steak

1/4 cup cooking lard. Real lard, not that processed garbage from the store.

around a cup of flour

1 teaspoon each of salt, pepper, and dried thyme

5 eggs

a cup or two of breadcrumbs or panko

A piece of plastic wrap or wax paper or parchment paper or something like that

A decent frying pan such as a cast iron skillet

a rolling pin or something like it

a knife

tongs, a spatula, or a very high pain tolerance (seriously just use tongs)

Since pigs use them to walk around all day, pork legs get a nice workout and thereby develop a lot of flavor. They also get very tough and need some special care in cooking so as to tenderize them. Ordinarily the rear leg is cured as ham or ground into sausage, and the front leg is turned into roasts for slow cooking or smoking, or cut into steaks which can then be slow cooked (such as in a braise) or smoked. All of these slow cooking methods tenderize the pork. Making schnitzel is a great way to speed up the cooking time while still tenderizing the meat. (It does not, however, save on cleanup time.)

Put the flour on a plate or in a bowl. Mix the salt, pepper, and dried thyme into the flour. Use any kind of grain flour you want.

Crack the eggs into a bowl and mix them.

Put the breadcrumbs on a plate or in a bowl.

Cut the pork leg steak into smaller pieces. For a one inch thick steak, cut pieces about the size of a deck of cards.

Put a piece of pork on a hard surface such as a cutting board or countertop, and place over it a piece of plastic wrap or something like it. Now take your rolling pin or equivalent whack the pork. Once the pork is pounded down to about a quarter-inch thickness you should probably stop and move on to another piece. Don’t try to save time by getting your pork steak cut a quarter-inch thick, because you still need to pound on it to tenderize it. Repeat until all the pork is pounded.

Add lard to the frying pan and apply heat. You want it hot but not insane. Lard has a high smoke point, so if it’s smoking your pan is way too hot, turn it down.

If you are perturbed by sizzling spatters of hot lard on your forearms, get someone else to do the rest of this. Or maybe wear long sleeves.

Using one hand only, and potentially your non-dominant hand, take a piece of pork and put it in the seasoned flour so both sides are covered with flour. Shake off the excess. Take said piece of pounded pork and plop it into the eggs so both sides are covered in egg. Shake off the eggcess. Now gently put it into the breadcrumbs and make sure to get both sides. Excess breadcrumbs can fall off on their own.

Now use the same hand to place the pork into the frying pan. The thimbles of caked-on flour, egg, and breadcrumb on your fingers should help to shield your soft, delicate, dainty fingers from the painfully popping melted lard. You could also use tongs, but whatever you do please do not toss the pork into the hot cooking fat from a distance causing boiling-hot cooking fat to spatter up at you. The problem with using tongs is that you risk the pork slipping out of the tongs too early and causing the hot fat to splash up at you.

Repeat until your frying pan is full, keeping an inch or so between each piece of pork in the pan.

Cook each piece for just a few minutes, then flip using tongs or a spatula with your other hand that isn’t covered in a sticky mess. There’s no point in washing your hands until you’re finished cooking all the pork, and you don’t really have time anyways as these cook quite quickly after being pounded out to a quarter-inch thickness. This is why you may want to use your non-dominant hand to do the breading. After flipping the pieces cook them another few minutes on the other side, then remove from the frying pan. The pork should be cooked through with just a few minutes of cooking on each side; check the first piece to make sure. Repeat until all the pork is cooked.

These are even better with some kind of sauce. Either a brown gravy, a fruit-based condiment such as a chutney, or a mayonnaise-based sauce (“aioli”) such as mayo-and-mustard, mayo-and-relish, or something like that.

Ham hocks and beans

2 tablespoons lard or other cooking fat

2 - 4 smoked ham hocks

a few tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 pound dry beans such as black beans

1 onion, diced

1 bunch celery, sliced

3 carrots, sliced

minced garlic (as much as you like it)

several large pinches of ground cumin

several large pinches of dry oregano

1/4 cup molasses

2 bay leaves

chicken stock (optional) or salted water

Thanks to Justina’s photography we have a picture this time!

Smoked ham hocks are a great way to add flavor to vegetable-based soups and stews, especially beans. For some people this is very much a traditional New Years meal. While it takes a long time to cook, most of that is just letting it sit on the stove on very low heat, so it’s a pretty low-effort meal for what you get, which is delicious.

Soak the beans overnight in a large pot full of water and defrost the ham hocks.

Start cooking by mid-morning or at the lastest noon in order to have this ready for dinner. Remove the beans from the pot and drain them. Heat lard or another high-heat cooking fat in the pot over medium-high heat. Add the ham hocks and sear them on all sides. Remove ham hocks.

Add diced onion and cook until translucent. Add garlic and celery and continue to cook until garlic begins to brown.

Add carrots and any other vegetables and cook for another minute or so. Most bean soup recipes call for things like green pepper. This is very much a winter-time dish, and green peppers are not in season. Parsnips could be a good addition, or replacement for the carrots. Wintertime greens like kale would fit well. Avoid starchy vegetables like winter squash, as the beans will have enough starch on their own.

Add the beans to the pot. Add chicken stock or water and a pinch or so of salt. Add enough liquid to cover the beans and no more. Add the vinegar. Add the cumin and oregano. If you feel the need to measure, something like a teaspoon or two of each. Add the molasses. Add the bay leaves. Stir everything, then add the ham hocks so they are covered as much as possible by the liquid.

Bring the soup to a boil and then turn down to a very low simmer and…wait. Stir the beans and flip the ham hocks every couple hours. It will likely take several hours for the beans to be tender, and you are also looking to reduce and thicken the broth.

Of course this recipe would work just fine in a crock pot or slow cooker.

When the meat starts pulling off the ham hocks, remove them from the pot. Pull the meat and fat off the bones, discard the bones, and shred the meat and fat with two forks, then return it to the pot of beans and stir. Continue to cook on a low simmer. You can basically keep simmering until you want to eat; the beans will eventually get mushy, but this doesn’t make them taste bad and will only happen after a long time. Everything will just get better the longer it cooks together, and the broth will be better the more it reduces. As the beans break down and release starch into the cooking liquid it becomes creamy and delicious.

A crusty sourdough or rye bread would be good to serve with the soup, to soak up the very flavorful and nutritious cooking liquid.